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Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown by JP Ryan
The Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown is an unlined, unfitted, T-shaped
jacket with a shawl collar that continues into robings. It is
knee-length, has seven-eighths length sleeves and underarm gussets.
The bedgown may be held closed with straight pins or an apron, for
which directions are included. Very easy to construct, the bedgown
is reversible when lined.
The enclosed pattern is my
interpretation of Figures 7-12, Plate 15 from Description des
Arts et Metiers, by M. Garsault, Paris, 1769, as published in
The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh. The jacket
is described as follows: "This is cut from two or four lengths
of material according to the width. The sleeves are cut en chemise,
that is, in one with the body; the squares cut from the sides of the
gown are added to the sleeves to give extra length...The back is cut
straight across the top and has an inverted pleat centre back. The
front... has an extra piece on top, ... which is formed into a pleat
and folded to fit the neck... An inverted pleat is set [in at] each
side [of] the waist."
The bedgown is fairly close fitting around the torso. If you wish
to make a looser garment, please select one size larger than you
If you are making an unlined bedgown, this pattern is best suited
to plain, unprinted fabrics, as the inside of the garment is turned
out to form the collar and cuffs. If you wish to use a print, it
would be best to consider making a bedgown with a lining.
Also included are diagrams and instructions for an apron as shown
on the cover.
One size per pattern - please choose correct bust size range.
Please see back cover photo for sizing chart, fabric and notion