18th Century Manteau-de-Lit or
18th Century Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown Sewing Pattern by JP Ryan
The Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown is an unlined, unfitted, T-shaped jacket with a shawl collar that continues into robings. It is knee-length, has seven-eighths length sleeves and underarm gussets. The bedgown may be held closed with straight pins or an apron, for which directions are included. Very easy to construct, the bedgown is reversible when lined.The enclosed pattern is my interpretation of Figures 7-12, Plate 15 fromDescription des Arts et Metiers, by M. Garsault, Paris, 1769, as published in The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh. The jacket is described as follows: "This is cut from two or four lengths of material according to the width. The sleeves are cut en chemise, that is, in one with the body; the squares cut from the sides of the gown are added to the sleeves to give extra length...The back is cut straight across the top and has an inverted pleat centre back. The front... has an extra piece on top, ... which is formed into a pleat and folded to fit the neck... An inverted pleat is set [in at] each side [of] the waist."
The bedgown is fairly close fitting around the torso. If you wish to make a looser garment, please select one size larger than you normally wear.
If you are making an unlined bedgown, this pattern is best suited to plain, unprinted fabrics, as the inside of the garment is turned out to form the collar and cuffs. If you wish to use a print, it would be best to consider making a bedgown with a lining.
Also included are diagrams and instructions for an apron as shown on the cover.
One size per pattern - please choose correct bust size range. Please see back cover photo for sizing chart, fabric and notion requirements.